Archive for the ‘History’ Category

Finavon Castle Water. Putting the 2011 season in context.

Sunday, November 20th, 2011

These bulletin blogs represent news about Finavon and the South Esk, and my views as a riparian owner. They are not the views of any other organisation, nor are they designed to promote the interests of any individual or organisation other than Finavon Castle Water and factors affecting the fishery.  Tony Andrews

Finavon Castle Water, River South Esk

Anyone talking about salmon these days simply has to take account of their unprecedented collapse in survival at sea before they start counting what they have caught in their wee patch. The truth is, and I cannot escape saying it, is that there are not enough salmon returning to our rivers to justify continuing to kill them as we did in the past. With that in mind anything that follows in these blogs about the performance of 2.4 miles of the middle South Esk during 2011 must be seen in the context of the overall decline in numbers of fish.

A March salmon of 15lbs (below)  from the Willows on Milton Beat. Spring fish like this one are the ultimate quarry of the salmon fly fisherman.

Playing a 15lbs salmon in Indies Pool

Nearing the end: a 15lbs spring salmon

In these out-of-season blogs I have attempted to show the local constraints to good numbers of salmon (and sea trout) accessing the river. The unpalatable fact is that the river is probably producing as many smolts as it did thirty years ago. There was far more exploitation by the nets then, and many more obstacles in the river. Finavon’s catches should therefore be seen as rods exploiting the remnants of far greater numbers of fish. The fact is that we are all catching fish from a diminishing stock of survivors, as are the coastal nets. 95% of our smolts are destined to die at sea. Multi sea winter salmon that feed in the Irminger Sea or off the Greenland coast are doing quite well, but those thin grilse – Belsen grilse – are scraping by on a meagre diet offered by their traditional feeding grounds in the northeast Atlantic Ocean. We can hope for change, but we shouldn’t bank on it. In the meantime we all need to be contributing to the maximum possible output of naturally generated smolts from our little river, because at the end of the day our river is a smolt factory!

In 2011 the number of fish entering the river between the 16th of February and the 31st of May was probably on a par with runs of fish in the 1960s and 1970s. A single year cannot of course tell the whole story, but what it does tell us is that in the late autumn of 2006 eggs were laid, probably by MSW fish. These spawning fish would have had a propensity to produce fish with a preference to return to the South Esk as multi sea winter spring fish. Moreover, they would have had to return in sufficient numbers to ensure recruitment of good numbers of juveniles, probably somewhere in the upper South Esk catchment. Over the two years following spawning the progeny of those fish grew to the point where in the spring of 2009 they left the river as S2 smolts and headed out to sea. After two winters at sea they returned to the South Esk in the early months of 2011.

At least something is right! For all the above to happen, quite a lot of things have to be right. If we assume that the survival rate of two sea winter fish from smolt to their return is about 5%, (but it could be better than that) then these survivors, from the abundance observed in the spring of 2011, indicate that a good number of S2 smolts left the South Esk in May/June 2008. That suggests that the habitat in certain (currently unknown) parts of the South Esk system is capable of  meeting the requirements to produce healthy smolts with the potential of becoming spring salmon.

Do spring salmon beget spring salmon? Well, maybe! An interesting additional point is that, for there to have been sufficient spawners in 2006 to produce a good output of smolts in 2009, the spring run of 2001 MSW spring salmon (in which 10 were caught at Finavon) must have had sufficient successful spawners too. While we shouldn’t assume that a spring run spawner’s progeny is necessarily comprised of only spring fish, evidence points us towards that assumption. So, although we should not make general comments on the condition of stocks and the habitats that support them from one year’s return, it is clear that some cautious extrapolation can be done. What can be said with confidence is that the South Esk continues to have the characteristics (e.g. water chemistry, temperature and gradients) required by spring salmon. But what precisely are those characteristics, and where in the catchment are they?

Kinnaird dyke on 14th December 1969 (below) with the River at 3″ at Finavon. A much narrower and steeper access with no ‘pool’ at the base of the pass made it very difficult for fish to use in high or cold water. Donald Macintyre, the water bailiff, remarked that the rough concrete face of the dam damaged fish and made them prone to infection.

Kinnaird Dyke 1969

Kinnaird Dyke before repairs in 1969

Kinnaird Dyke (below) on 29 September 1970 with the River at 1′ 4″ at Finavon. The repairs to the dyke that were done during 1970 made a big difference to enabling salmon to access the river above Brechin in the spring months. But it wasn’t until Colin Carnie in the mid nineties redesigned the dyke to reduce the flow through the pass with two wooden baffles which to this day enable salmon to swim through the pass early in the year. This is why we now see spring salmon at Finavon regularly in March month.

Kinnaird Dyke

Kinnaird Dyke after repairs in 1970

Spring 2011 salmon numbers: an educated guess? A calculation, based on the South Esk spring run of 2011 having a pre fishery abundance (PFA) of about 2,000 MSW salmon, representing 5% or more of the smolts that left the river, indicates that in 2009 the river produced up to 40,000 smolts with a preference to return as spring salmon. You may ask how I got the PFA figure of 2,000 spring fish. I can only answer that by claiming the number as a guess based on the declared Usan net catch, rod catches, the number of dead & diseased fish, and observation of fish in the pools in March, April and May. I note that no-one has yet challenged this estimated number of spring salmon.

It was clear to those who caught and released 2011 spring salmon that these survivors were in excellent condition & had fed well during their time at sea, suggesting that their marine feeding destination was probably in the productive western half of the ocean. It also begs the question, in the context of the poor grilse numbers in 2011, whether we might reasonably predict good returns of well fed MSW salmon in 2012, from grilse that elected to stay on for their second winter at sea and head west to feed. I suspect that may be a bridge too far in scientific terms, but a reasonable punt for an amateur such as myself! What it doesn’t explain is why, after a good grilse run in 2010, we had such a strong run of MSW salmon in the spring and summer of 2011. These are questions that scientists are now addressing, following the success in sampling salmon at sea done by the SALSEA project.

But what happened to the other c.95% of fish that didn’t survive? At what stage in their sea journey did they die, and from what cause?

So, while a snapshot can only be an indicator, and I certainly wouldn’t claim that it tells the whole story, a single year’s return as we had in 2011 does tell us something about the River’s ability to generate healthy populations of S2 smolts. Wouldn’t it be interesting to learn which parts of the South Esk catchment have this ability? That is why I like the Marine Scotland Science plan to track the destination of 150 spring salmon. It would be so good to learn which bits are productive, and why they are, wouldn’t it? And, just think, if we could find out where the juveniles grow well, wouldn’t we then become much more precise in our habitat improvement work?

The next blog gives the catch statistics with comments from people who have managed the river, owned beats or fished the South Esk over more than a century

Huts at FCW: places for reflection & discussion, and perhaps a cat-nap.

Friday, June 17th, 2011

PART ONE: RED BRAE HUT AND DAVID’S TREE-HOUSE

I have long thought that fishing huts make an important contribution to our conservation efforts at Finavon. They distract the fisherman from the task in hand, provide him with a locus for relaxation and probably increase his chances of catching a fish! In the old days (20 years ago) we had no huts at Finavon and our visting fishermen had to fish out of the boots of their cars. If it was wet, windy or cold they ate their sandwich lunches with car heaters turned up, and if they could find a spot with a view of the river they were lucky. There was nowhere to heat a bowl of soup, or relax. That has all changed…

Now we have four huts. The oldest of these is the one at the Red Brae, which was built in 1993 and refurbished in 2010, when we replaced the old corrugated resin roof with larch shingles. It looks much more like a Canadian backwoods, early settler’s cabin now. I love this hut because of the views upriver towards the flats, with the suspension footbridge to frame the picture, and downstream to the Red Brae Wall and beyond, where you can often see fish showing. Beneath the hut, almost at your feet, is the alluring and busy little Craigo Stream, so often the scene of late night battles with big sea trout. Craigo boasts a long history of big fish, and I often think there’s one there, just a few feet from where I sit with a glass of something or other in my hand in one of those comfortable (ex Cortachy Castle) armchairs (see the photo!) . This is a comfortable hut, very warm and a great place to linger…

Inside of RB hut

Red Brae Hut interior. The wooden cut-outs are of fish caught recently by people fishing FCW pools. The walls are posted with many interesting snippets of information about Finavon, fish & people who have fished there, and also about things completely unrelated to any of the above!

Red Brae Hut in the winter of 2010/11

Red Brae Hut in Winter 2010/11.

What better time to linger in the Red Brae hut than in mid winter, very often when the river is frozen and the prints of otters, red squirrels, stoats, rabbits and roe deer tell you that you are not alone! I didn’t mention minks: we don’t really want these North American intruders, because of their terrorist activities and negative impacts on our indigenous wildlife. We are trying to eradicate them.

In 2010, a few months after the death of our son David, we built a Treehouse fishing hut, which of course we named ‘David’s Tree-house’ (‘DTH’ for short). He and I planned to build this ‘hut’ in a more modest way than the final version. We have ended up with something a bit more special than a mere ‘hut’, largely thanks to the imagination and skills of William Wells who runs a company called ‘Scottish Oak’ (which you can google). The construction of DTH was based on a mixture of treehouse and the practical requirements of a fishing hut. I think you will agree that the result is an oustanding success. My congratulations to Will and his co-worker, Andrew, for giving us what others may come to see as one of Scotland’s most attractive and original fishing huts.  The view from inside this deliciously warm and secluded tree-house is only bettered by the view of Pheasantry Pool from the veranda.  This is a very special place for fishermen and people who accompany them.

David's Tree House

David’s Tree House (DTH) on Castle Beat, the N bank of Pheasantry Pool.

David's Tree House interior

The interior of David’s Tree House (DTH)

More of a small house with its loft and spacious downstairs, this is a place for friends to meet and discuss their catch, or prospects for fishing, or to commiserate as the case may be. We use it for family BBQs and picnics all the year round, and our visitors are most welcome to enjoy these wonderful surroundings.The wildlife here is outstanding, whether you are an amateur botanist, entomologist or just enjoy seeing reptiles, birds, flora or fauna, just being here is a positive experience, and having this as your fishing headquarters for the day (or night) is very special indeed. The fishing on Castle Beat can be good in the right conditions. The beat has six substantial pools, including the famous Red Brae. DTH is located in the middle of Castle Beat, all of which is fished from the north bank.

Veranda DTH

This is the veranda of DTH looking East (downstream) to the steps. The veranda is about 6 feet above the ground with beech trees growing through the deck and the larch shingle roof. There is a bench and ample room for sitting outside during one of those rare mild Angus summer evenings. When such an evening does come along, there is no better place on earth to be, especially if conversation is interrupted from time to time by the heavy splash of a good sea trout desporting itself in Pheasantry. Incidentally, the best salmon lie in that pool is on the South side of the streamy water flowing into the pool – in the slightly slower current, which should be obvious to the practised eye of the experienced flyfisherman.

DTH at daffodil time

David’s Tree House at daffodil time 2011

DTH from S bank

View of DTH from south bank, looking across Pheasantry Pool in low water.

This part of the FCW fishery used to be neglected because, especially in high water, it was quite difficult getting there. We have now resolved this problem by installing a footbridge from the S bank just upstream of the Red Brae car park. The new footbridge (about which more anon) links up with the suspension bridge at the tail of Castle Stream, and by putting in a track (OK for saloon cars) from the Haughs aqueduct along the N bank to a small car park close to DTH you can get there through the farm on the N bank of the river. The result is that the six pools of Castle Beat are being fished more regularly, and fishermen are starting to enjoy the fishy potential of pools such as Kirkinn, Pheasantry and Nine Maidens. This is good news for the whole fishery because it spreads our catches more evenly across all four beats. In terms of a good place to be it is hard to better Castle Beat, the most private stretch of river at FCW.

PART TWO: THE TWO HUTS AT BOGARDO AND INDIES (to follow later)

 

A pristine river and concerns about freshwater mussels

Thursday, May 19th, 2011

Yesterday in lowish water Moray had an 11 lbs salmon from Frank’s Stream, which is his favourite FCW pool. The fish took a size 10 Finavon Cascade variant tied by Pete at the point where the current, after deflecting away from the S bank, spreads out across the river. Whilst not detracting from Moray’s lovely fish, Frank’s Stream must be the easiest FCW pool to fish: indeed you could fish it in your carpet slippers, barely getting the uppers wet, so well trimmed is the grass along its bank!

Today the river is running at 4″ with a healthy ‘bulge’ around the sides of the Armchair (webcam) boulder. The water is clear and the colour of a very pale malt whisky. Conditions are perfect for dawn and dusk fishing. And there are fish in the pools!

Freshwater Mussels in the South Esk

There is concern in SNH and the Esk Trust about the wellbeing of South Esk Freshwater Mussels (Margaritifera margaritifera). The well-known mussel beds at the Sawmill Dam on Cortachy Castle water, where regeneration of the mollusc has been monitored over a number of years, are showing a decline. Noone knows why, although the ERFT view is that it may be because of excessive amounts of silt being washed down from Glen Clova. The SNH/SEPA view is that there may be an issue with pesticides, but their origin and precisely how they affect the mussel is unknown. Further down the river, as I mentioned in a previous blog, large numbers of mussel shells, of varying sizes, indicating a range of age groups, were washed out by the winter spates. Marshall Halliday, the Trust’s director, feels that the increasingly violent spate ‘events’, that did not occur in the past, may be causing damage to mussel beds. I think there may also be a connection with the loss of the dams on the river (only Kinnaird remains as an effective barrier and ‘holder back’ of a significant reservoir of water) because the quieter water and lades associated with these structures provided habitat for freshwater mussels. Disappearance of the dams (or ‘dykes’) has removed those ‘oases’ of suitable habitat.

You may be wondering why freshwater mussels are important, and indeed why I keep on banging on about them. My angle on the subject is based on awareness of the important SAC (Special Area of Conservation) status of the South Esk. This EU designation has provided the River with its priority status for habitat enhancement, and with that some really significant amounts of money. Margaritifera margaritifera is not just an interesting freshwater species, which it certainly is:  it is also a biological indicator that tells us a lot about the condition of the River – its habitat, flows and water quality. Most of all, because of a fascinating parasitic relationship with the salmon (and sea trout) it tells us a lot about where our salmon and sea trout are going within the catchment, and has undoubted indicator implications for the health of individual populations of both species of fish.  And all this because the larvae (Glochidium) of the mussel hitch a ride in the gills of our wild salmon and sea trout! How else could they get upriver you might ask?

* If you are interested in finding out more about the freshwater mussel I recommend Fred Woodward’s superb little book ‘The Scottish Pearl in its World Context”  Diehard 1994 ISBN 0-946230-27-7 or, on the law,  the Scottish Executive pamphlet “Scottish Conservation Priorities” – freshwater pearl mussels, pressures, conservation and enforcement of wildlife law.

Sunny May morning: Tyndals

Here’s a photo of Tyndals taken early this morning. The river rose a few inches overnight, but by 0900 was dropping back slowly.

TA