Archive for the ‘History’ Category

New tree-house fishing hut and wildlife pond in David’s Wood

Monday, June 7th, 2010
Foundations for tree-house fishing hut

Castle Beat Fishing Hut under construction

Our plans to transform David’s Wood on the north bank of Pheasantry into a place of tranquility for people and wildlife are now progressing quickly. Our master craftsman, Will Wells, has completed the foundations in preparation for the arrival of the frame of the hut itself and its Scottish larch roof shingles. When finished, the view from the veranda – with beech trees growing through its roof – will look down on the delightful streamy flow of Pheasantry Pool and across to the high Red Brae bank with the sharp edge of the old vitrified fort of Finavon Hill as the backdrop. This place is the heart of the Finavon Castle Water experience, but then so are the three other huts’ locations! (Red Brae south, Harry’s Bar south and Indies north). There is something very special about David’s Wood which I am sure will be appreciated by our visitors. History, privacy and tranquility, not to mention some good fishing when conditions are right, combine to make this a uniquely relaxing place to be.

Close by the tree-house hut is our new wildlife pond (see below). Already, after only a month, we have seen water beetles, boatmen and a profusion of other invertebrates. With the native lilies, reeds, flags and rushes all settling in well, and with a happy family of mallards already thinking about making the pond one of their regular residences, we have exceeded our own expectations by a considerable margin. We will try to keep the pool fish-free (there being more than enough in the river!) but the likelihood is that minnows, sticklebacks and eels, along with frogs, toads and newts, will soon colonise this most lovely woodland pool.

David's Wood Pond after one month

New pond for amphibians, invertebrates and ducks

Building the pond presented us with a challenge because the soil along the S Esk river banks is very porous, necessitating some sort of water-holding liner. We went for the very best on the market, in the form of Bentomat, which is a smart form of clay liner. The key ingredient is bentonite which is volcanic ash that fell into lakes (or the sea, but that’s a different chemical compound) and through millions of years formed a clay-based sedimentary rock which when mined (in Australia and other places) produces a fine white powder. When water is added to bentonite it expands massively and makes a gooey clay layer. the Bentomat product is simply bentonite sandwiched between two layers of very tough, synthetic, non-woven fabric. With a sprinkling of bentonite powder between each overlap and each 5m strip of bentomat laid to cover the prepared pond area (with the spoil providing hard standing for the new vehicle track all the way up the N bank to Pheasantry), we now have a stable pond that holds its water level extraordinarily well, and which has become an important focus for wildlife. It certainly adds a new dimension to the Castle Beat experience!

TA

A tribute to Alasdair Petrie 1940 – 2009

Thursday, April 15th, 2010

This very brief tribute to Alasdair is overdue. He was my friend, employee and partner in the Finavon adventure, and he died at the age of 69 of cancer on 23 December 2009. The last twenty five years at Finavon would have been poorer had he not been here working with me on the development of the fishery, which is a fine example of a beat on a Scottish salmon river, in no small measure because of Alasdair’s commitment to it over 20 years.

Alasdair was the river keeper and ghillie at Finavon from 1989 to 2008. During this time he looked after hundreds of visiting fly fishermen and their friends and families, keeping their morale high, even in the most unpropitious conditions, with his unending stream of jokes and good humour. His knowledge and love of the South Esk, combined with his meticulous attention to the needs of his customers and the riverbanks, gave the Finavon Castle Water a champion throughout his long service.

Alasdair fishing the nymph for low water salmon

Alasdair fishing Willows

 His love of the River had an obsessional side: he couldn’t bear to see litter, especially polythene bags hanging in the branches of river bank trees after a flood, nor could he abide the sight of the invasive weeds which take over the riverside in the summer. I would often find huge quantities of seedling Himalayan Balsam or Giant Hogweed left in piles beside the hut, a visible result of Alasdair’s obsession with their eradication! Alasdair was the best of the old style ghillies, but he also had a modern approach to his work by recognising that the fishing tenants were his customers and that he was responsible to a large extent for their enjoyment of time spent on the river. Many of FCW’s international tenants, Godi Donnersmarck from Austria, Hiro Soda from Japan, Earnley Gilbert  from England, Sennen Paz from Spain, Erik Alstrom from Finland and many many others became close personal friends of Alasdair. He often went to Finland, Iceland or Austria as their guest with his wife Elizabeth, who is a well known local artist and whose paintings of Finavon are much admired.
Alasdair Petrie & Ned Coates South Esk ghillies

Alasdair Petrie & Ned Coates

Alasdair was brought up in Dundee and excelled at school, especially in English and Latin. At 16 he joined the Royal Navy and was a ‘Button Boy’ at HMS Ganges (Where he stood at the apex of the huge mast 100′ above the parade ground). He then joined the police and afterwards the prison service before doing what he had always wanted by living in Angus and getting involved with shooting and fishing. He was an ardent reader and a considerable expert on the Second World War. He was also a prolific poet and writer. Over the years 1990 to 2005 he kept a detailed logbook of his observations from the riverbank. Red squirrels, ospreys, otters, stoats, roe deer, and the huge variety of butterflies, moths and birds we see at Finavon were all observed and recorded, and interspersed with his own poetry, some of which deserves a wider readership. I have promised myself that one day I will use the FCW logs as a quarry to write (with Alasdair at my side) about Finavon and the South Esk.

Alasdair at hut

Alasdair at hut

Alasdair was one of those original people who left a mark on people much greater than might at first appear from where he worked and what he did. I often think of his 20 years at Finavon as an insciption on ivory. By this I mean that he worked in the detail of a small part of a little river in East Scotland. But the people he met and influenced, and his own resulting impact on their lives, made him much more important than his localised life might seem. Alasdair was a highly intelligent man. In my opinion he could have done many different things with his life; for example, he could have become a senior police officer or prison governor; or he could have been a musician (he played in a well known Dundee group as a teenager), or a stand-up comedian (ask anyone who heard Alasdair in full flow: they would agree!).

We were all lucky that he chose Finavon, and he is already greatly missed.  Alasdair is survived by his wife, Elizabeth and his children Mark, Barrie and Karen and his step children, John and Wendy. TA.

Fishing & Flying – Terence Horsley and the Appliance of Science

Sunday, February 1st, 2009

Drew Jamieson – 2009

Drew Jamieson aircraft

It is a dark night in June, not long after midsummer, and the only noise is the occasional splash of a sea trout.  It should be a clear night up here in the far north but it is cloudy with a thick layer of strato-cumulus from 1000 feet to 10000 feet with poor visibility underneath.    I am the only rod on the beat tonight, I think, and am enjoying having the beat to myself until I see the dark shadow further down the pool.  He is quiet, knee deep at the pool-tail just the swish-swish of his rod betraying his presence.

“Long-time friend of the owner”, he offers, sensing my surprise at the intrusion.   There is plenty of room for both of us and the sea trout aren’t taking yet. He seems a nice enough guy, polite and well-spoken in an old-fashioned sort of way.  A traditionalist I assume or even a collector, as I admire his classic split-cane rod.  He doesn’t have a Barbour jacket, just one of those retro, fleece-lined Air Force surplus things.  “Used to be a tenant here, a long time back”, he continues, “Just get the odd night off now, when the weather is too bad for flying”. I wish him luck, leave him to it and move on down to the next pool.

The ghillie turns up later, to check my progress.  I tell him I have met the other guest.  “What other guest?” he asks.  There is no other guest, he tells me.  I describe the bomber jacket, split cane rod and old fashioned ways and recognition dawns.  “This happened one night last year”, he says.  “Filthy night, too”, he reminisces. Strange chap. Never any bother. No idea who he is.  Must like his sea trout fishing.”

Back at the hut, when we get there, laid out on the grass, is a brace of sea trout.  Pinned to the door, scribbled on a scrap of paper.  is the message, “Thanks for the hospitality – Stringbag.” I turn it over.  It is torn off an aeronautical chart, with airfields marked in purple.  The bottom corner of the map, written in blue, reads “Fleet Air Arm, 1941”.

Brace of Sea Trout

Terence Horsley
Lieutenant Commander Terence V Horsley RN was a keen sportsman and glider pilot who flew Swordfish and other aircraft with the Fleet Air Arm during the Second World War.  He began to write articles under the nom-de-plume of “Stringbag” and latterly published a series of fascinating books on naval air power, gliding, shooting, fishing and flying.  His most outstanding book, “Soaring Flight,” was published just before the end of the War in 1944 and his story of the Fleet Air Arm, “Find Fix and Strike followed in 1945.   He published his first purely fishing book, “Salmon and Trout Fishing”, in 1946, followed by Sporting Pageant: a Gun, a Rifle and an Aeroplane in 1947.  His last book The Long Flight, also published in 1947, describes the dramas and romance of long-distance travel by fish, wildfowl and aircraft.

I first met Horsley in the pages of his classic book, “Fishing and Flying”, also published in 1947.  From the ecstasies of tumbling a high-performance aircraft through the clouds, corries and passes of the Cairngorms at 360 mph, to the quiet magic of fishing the night estuary for sea trout, Horsley had me in thrall, leading me intensely through his two contrasting worlds of flying and fishing, including the River South Esk in Angus .

The South Esk starts life in the high hills of the Grampians and after traversing Glen Clova, emerges into the great sandstone lowland of Strathmore and on into the North Sea.  On its way it drains some of the richest farmland in Scotland and passes through the ancient and historic burghs of  Kirriemuir, Brechin and Montrose.  Horsley was, for a time, the tenant on the Finavon beat, near Kirriemuir.   During that time he applied his analytical skills as a pilot to the experiences of salmon fishing.

The Appliance of Science
On the basis of his catch-returns for August 1941 on the Finavon Beat of the South Esk he published one of the early empirical records to show the relationship between salmon catches and river height, where all his catches in that month occurred on a falling water level.  Although this was a fact that many anglers had surmised, this provided a demonstration of the “appliance of science” – the practical benefits of scientific observation to practical action on the river, whether for angler or fishery manager.

GRAPH for Fishing & Flying

Airborne Again
From Horsley’s base at HMS Condor (RNAS Arbroath) the South Esk was just beyond the airfield circuit.  He describes:

“During the minutes which my observer required to obtain wireless permission to “pancake”, I could fly across the seven-hundred-foot ridge ….inspect my water, noting whether there were poachers about…noting the height of the water by a stone on the edge of the pool, and discovering on the way a remarkable fund of information about the birds and beasts along the banks.”

He had a love-hate relationship with his “little river”, as he called it.  His first fish was a 20 lb Spring salmon and he caught many others, yet his river could be a fickle mistress.

“Oh reluctant, horrid little river!” he wrote, “I wasted a gallon of petrol on you today, convinced that you would repay it.  Do you remember that, when I flew over you this morning, you showed me your stone, half uncovered……on your own reckoning you were, today, in perfect order.  Deceptive wretch.”

The diary conversation of one man, an airman and a fisherman, to his fickle love – his “little river” – the South Esk.

Terence Horsley died in a gliding accident on April 24, 1949 at the age of 45, at Bradwell Edge, in Derbyshire, where his gliding career began, His obituary, in The Aeroplane of 13 May 1949 starts with Benjamin Franklin’s quote: They that can sacrifice essential liberty for a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety

More Appliance of Science – “LIFE” after Horsley
Things have moved on since Horsley’s time and life goes on.  The South Esk is now recognized as a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) under the European Union Habitats Directive because, the designation states:
“it supports a large, high-quality salmon population in a river draining a moderate-sized catchment on the east coast of Scotland. ……….. The high proportion of the South Esk which is accessible to salmon and the range of ecological conditions in the river allows it to support the full range of life-history types found in Scotland, with sub-populations of spring, summer salmon and grilse all being present.”

Since 2004 it has been one of the eight salmon rivers forming the Conservation of Atlantic Salmon in Scotland (CASS) project sharing some £3 million of EU money under the LIFE-Nature programme of projects applying the results of scientific research to the practicalities of managing salmon fisheries.  Activities undertaken by the Esk DSFB included surveys of salmon habitat and juvenile numbers together with extensive fencing of river corridors in the upper catchment to control grazing, reduce erosion and prevent siltation of spawning gravels.  One of the key activities of the CASS programme has been raising awareness of salmon conservation.  The Salmon in the Classroom project introduces children to the wonders of salmon by hatching salmon eggs in schools and growing the resulting fry until they are old enough to release back into their local river.

Back-cast
My own interest in the South Esk?  Well, both flying and fishing.  I first looked down on the river from my Chipmunk aircraft on my first solo navigation exercise from Scone, to Kirriemuir to Forfar and back to base.  From the air it looked attractive and I vowed I would return. In my subsequent twenty years of flying Canberras and others of Her Majesty’s aircraft, I had, like Horsley, “lingered in the sunlight above the peaks of the Cairngorms and marveled at the apparent innocence of the land”. And yet again I had “flown southwards at four miles to every minute….until the ground split and the headwaters of the South Esk were suddenly below.” I had hung up my flying gloves before I could follow him to his “little river” with a salmon rod in my hand.  But I did eventually, and caught my first salmon in the Beech Tree Pool of, what was then called, the Shielhill beat.   The rest is history – “Those whom the Gods seek to  destroy;  they first allow to hook a salmon”.

Like a homing fish I still return to the South Esk.  Each season, when the Tornadoes or Typhoons from RAF Leuchars boom over at low level and the sea trout are feeding, “Fishing and Flying” all come together again – and Terence Horsley continues to share my night-fishing  -when the weather is too bad for flying!