Archive for the ‘River Report’ Category

Dry in the West; floods in the East.

Monday, July 11th, 2011

These bulletin blogs represent news about Finavon and the South Esk, and my views as a riparian owner. They are not the views of any other organisation, nor are they designed to promote the interests of any individual or organisation other than Finavon Castle Water and factors affecting the fishery.  Tony Andrews

I spent last week fishing the Gruinard River in Wester Ross. This was a rare moment of infidelity in my long relationship with Finavon. I am no philanderer when it comes to my love affair with the South Esk, but, if you are going to have a fling, there’s nowhere quite like the Gruinard and Strath na Shealagh. My upstream neighbour and riparian co-proprietor, Colin Gibb (see picture), has long held this view of East and West!

Low water on the River Gruinard below the road bridge

Colin Gibb, proprietor of Inshewan fishings on the South Esk, fishing on Loch Na Shealagh:

Loch Na Shealagh, head of the Gruinard River, Wester Ross.

While the South Esk had a week of heavy rain, high water and a tumultous flood on Thursday night, the Gruinard dropped away to a bare stickle by the end of the week. In fact it was only the East wind that kept water slopping out of Loch Na Shealagh, and when the wind died and then veered to the West the river level dropped by two inches. In such circumstances most fishers would have packed their bags, googled ‘golf courses Wester Ross’ or do what I did, which was to visit the incomparable Inverewe Gardens and some of my old haunts around the shores of Loch Ewe. Despite the low water in the Gruinard River we managed to catch 2 salmon, 19 sea trout and 34 brownies, all in the Loch, which in the circumstances wasn’t too bad.

The West in sharp contrast to the East….

The Flats (Milton Beat) and suspension bridge beyond

Back at home our tenants, Simon our web designer, and our mustard-keen syndicate members, all struggled to catch fish. When they did land one (many were lost) it was usually a cracker, exemplified by a beautiful 10lbs salmon caught by Ian Ingledew and a 4lbs 6oz sea trout caught by the Brattesani party. Then the floods came, the water coloured up and everything went quiet catchwise, although the river must have been sending a powerful chemical signal to its progeny of grilse, salmon and sea trout lying off the coast. I find the thought of these summer fish, a high proportion of which usually fall victim to the Usan nets, entering the river in response to the flood signal, most reassuring. It is inspiring to reflect on them forging their way upstream unobstructed, and more than likely being in a position to fulfil the object of their migration – spawning. We need a long term view of the River with the thought of another year when stocks will be naturally replenished without much in the way of impediments to that vital process. After all, it is that natural cycle that makes the world go round, a point repeatedly made by Ted Hughes in his salmon poems.

Upper South Esk Catchment: Glen Clova (once described to me by a well known fishery biologist as “perfect juvenile habitat for salmon and trout”)

The catch for the wet week at Finavon that ended on the 9th of July was 5 salmon (4 of which were grilse) and 4 sea trout. Not too bad in the circumstances. The grilse are now starting to appear, mostly under 4lbs, but over the next 6 weeks or so we should see the average weight rise, perhaps with the occasional fish into double figures by the time October comes. Prospects for the coming weeks look reasonable, provided the grilse keep coming in. My suspicion is that the sea trout run has peaked and that we will be lucky to maintain our average catch numbers of these fish. The River is in great condition, ready for the late summer and autumn runs of MSW fish. We have a few unlet days so please get in touch with Moray Macfarlane (07835 717 150)  if you want to fish for autumn salmon.

TA

A new footbridge at the Red Brae

Wednesday, June 22nd, 2011

These bulletin blogs represent news about Finavon and the South Esk, and my views as a riparian owner. They are not the views of any other organisation, nor are they designed to promote the interests of any individual or organisation other than Finavon Castle Water and factors affecting the fishery.  Tony Andrews

This is the illustrated story of how a new footbridge, from the Red Brae track to Jock Barefoot’s Island, came to be built. It will be no surprise to regular visitors to FCW that the bridge is to be called “Jock Barefoot’s Bridge” after a young estate worker who unwisely cut a staff from a chestnut tree close to the great keep, known today as the Castle of Finavon. Unfortunately the laird was a brutal, cruel man called Earl Beardie, an early Lindsay, who wrought vengeance against the young man by hanging him from the same tree in punishment for his ‘crime’. Legend has it that Jock’s ghost still haunts the area around the confluence of the Lemno Burn with the River. Quite recently people have seen and felt the presence of his ghost, doubtless an anguished soul after his violent fate.

One of the impediments to enjoying a day’s fishing at Finavon has always been access to the north bank from the car park at the Red Brae. The lure of fishing the Red Brae pool from the north bank was often left unfulfilled because of high water making access impossible. Over the years we have had some nasty moments with fishermen struggling against the current in a rising river. Years ago Peter Reynard nearly drowned after becoming trapped in a rising river on a dark October evening. Fortunately Alasdair Petrie, the FCW ghillie, realised how serious the problem had become and made a heroic rescue of Peter in the nick of time. As a direct result of this incident we started dealing with this problem back in 1997 when we built the suspension footbridge linking the island (which we call ‘Jock Barefoot’s island’, but that is another story) with the north bank just upstream from Craigo Stream. That left the flood channel between the south bank and Jock Barefoot’s Island, and we all had to negotiate that gravel channel, which was mildly inconvenient in low water and difficult, bordering on dangerous, at higher river levels.

The completion of David’s Treehouse and the inviting walk down to Indies that opened up with its new access track, persuaded us that we should build a bridge over the flood channel high enough to keep the structure clear of spates. To say that it was a challenge to build a 20 metre single-span footbridge out of treated spruce timbers is an understatement. If I as the person who commissioned this amazing structure, lost a few hours of sleep over our decision to undertake this project, spare a thought for the designer and craftsman, Will Wells, who must have lost many nights to thinking about how the job might be done, and the risk of failure. I know he did, and it is a huge credit to him that he trusted in the innate qualities of wood and his own craftsmanship to deliver a singularly beautiful and remarkable bridge

Will and Andrew assembled the bridge in the Red Brae car park. Two spruce beams made from scarf-joined timbers, strengthened with nail plates (as used for roof trusses) and then fixed under compression in an arch were then joined together with diagonal cross beams and linked with deck planks. Finally 4×4 handrails gave the structure additional strength and rigidity, all under compression. It was possible for two or three people to walk ‘across’ the bridge in its car park location withouit much sign of a ‘bend’. Will pointed out that with the braces, under compression as well, supporting the bridge in its final position, its strength would be enhanced. Two wooden supports, where the braces were to slot into the bridge beams were then removed as a final test of the  strength of the bridge. On dry land it all seemed to work. OK in harbour: now for the open sea!

Gail and Tally the labrador testing the bridge in the Red Brae car park

Will adjusting the position of the beams.

Getting the beams across was awkward but, once they were in position in their specially made steel brackets and joined together, the bridge was amazingly strong and could support the weight of Will and Andrew – plus a little help from the JCB with Dougie Ogilvy nursing the arched structure – strung like a spider’s web across the twenty metres of channel. Seeing it in position, looking so delicate and yet so obviously robust and strong, was a great sight, and celebrations were had at this first success!

Jock Barefoot’s Bridge – and Will Wells, designer and craftsman who built it.

This is the bridge across the flood channel linking Red Brae track with the island. You can now go from Milton of Finavon to Indies in your carpet slippers, not that you would want to! This bridge makes the final link for a very nice walk down the river to David’s Treehouse and further on to Indies.

TA

South Esk salmon fungus and stocks estimates.

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011

These bulletin blogs represent news about Finavon and the South Esk, and my views as a riparian owner. They are not the views of any other organisation, nor are they designed to promote the interests of any individual or organisation other than Finavon Castle Water and factors affecting the fishery.  Tony Andrews

Friends have been fishing at Cortachy, Downie Park and Inshewan, and what they have told me gladdens and saddens the heart simultaneously. Reports from Inshewan and holding pools upriver are of a spring run reminding us of the abundance of the 1960s when, if the temperature barrier of the Kinnaird Dyke allowed, large numbers of MSW salmon would fill the middle and upper river. With deep holding pools from Justinhaugh up to Dunbog Farm all holding good numbers of spring salmon ranging in size from 7lbs to over 20lbs you would have thought that any fisherman or riparian owner would be uncritically content.

Sadly the world doesn’t operate like that, nor do salmon rivers. The abundance of fish, their overcrowding into deeper pools, and the low water in April & early May, have led to an outbreak of a fungal infection (saprolegnia). On the North Esk the situation is much worse, but of course they have more fish. Both Inshewan and Finavon on the S Esk are reporting dead, fresh-run salmon covered in fungus being taken from the river and buried. I am sure the same is true of Cortachy and Downie Park. Those dead salmon that aren’t found by river staff are eaten by otters (or by labradors if you are unlucky enough to be beside the river with your dog!). I know of at least 60 dead salmon taken out of the middle river, and there will be many others lower down and in the upper reaches. Let us guess that we have lost 200 salmon to disease and that the Usan nets have already killed about 800 spring salmon (60% of which might reasonably be expected to ‘belong’ to the S Esk), and still there are many fish showing in our pools. Based on observation and the catches we have seen recorded, it is not unreasonable to suppose that more than 1,500 salmon, perhaps as many as 2,000, have run the South Esk to date in 2011. If that is the case it is also true that the spring stock, in this year at any rate, is not so fragile as we thought it might be. While there’s no room for complacency, it is very encouraging that there are still spring fish in the river

Of course one swallow doesn’t make a summer, but it is also true that the 2010 run of spring salmon indicated a reasonable return of adult salmon, despite the poor rod catches resulting from low water yet again. The evidence therefore suggests that there appears to be a surplus year-on-year. The problem is that we really don’t have much idea of what the spring stock component conservation level is (or should be) and therefore it is impossible to state with any confidence whether that surplus can be ‘harvested’ without damaging stocks. We don’t know how many salmon and grilse run the South Esk. We only have rod catch statistics to tell us what the trends are. But I will hazard a guess that the five-year average of returning adults into the South Esk, based on 60% of Usan net catches and the declared rod catch, plus our own observations, is somewhere around 10,000 fish. I base this figure on 1,500 MSW fish up to 31 May, 3,000 salmon and grilse in June,  July and August and 5,500 salmon and grilse from 1 September until spawning time (ie including salmon that enter the river after the close season on 31/10) There you are: I’ve put a salmon number on the South Esk! I could argue that my estimate should stand, despite its being based on guesswork, until someone provides the evidence to show that I am wrong. I wish someone would, if only to show that he/she has better evidence than my semi-educated guesses! One thing about making estimates in this way is that with refinement and new data they can only improve! What I can say, and this statement is backed up by some of the UK’s most knowledgeable fishery biologists, is that the South Esk is a very fertile little river which might produce figures something like this: Please note this is guesswork. I would welcome an informed challenge to these figures.

Average number of South Esk salmon and grilse killed by mixed stocks nets = c. 2,500*

Total number of salmon and grilse entering the River  = c. 10,000*

Total number of spawning females, allowing for 20% in-river losses = c.4,000

Average weight of spawning hen salmon = c. 8 lbs

Average number of eggs deposited by each hen fish = 4,500

Total number of eggs deposited in South Esk catchment  (4,500 X 4,000) = c.18 million

Estimated number of smolts produced annually by S.Esk (say 1% of total deposited eggs) = c.180,000*

Assume percentage of smolts returning as grilse is about 8% and of MSW fish about 5% (average 6.5%)

6.5% of 180,000 = c. 11,700 salmon and grilse arriving off the Angus coast (PFA) prior to nets exploitation.

While these figues do work – well, sort of – I have asterisked the ones I feel are priorities for investigation. As I say, this is my best guess after more than 35 years of observing runs of salmon in the South Esk. I would be interested to see what our fishery board’s estimate is, but only if accompanied by the data – e.g. evidence such as juvenile counts, redd counts and fertile wetted area calculations as applied by the Environment Agency in England.

I will certainly return to these figures and refine them as more data becomes available.

TA